#Iver johnson top break revolver cheep serial number
#Iver johnson top break revolver cheep full

If you have original nickel, no rust, and lockup is tight, then you have a real winner. If you actually have a six shot cylinder on that piece, then it probably IS a large frame that was set up for. It was redesigned to handle smokeless loads, about 1908. Well, for sure you have a 3rd Model, which is the best of the production. Again, Thanks so much for all of your knowledge and input! I am off to work but will check back on this thread later. Was the price I paid reasonable? ($150 with a cheap hunter holster and a new box of 32 S&W longs.) I will say that the trigger pull is a beast! It locks up tight and the lock up is true on both single and double action. I am not stuck on shooting longs just was going to use them if the gun is truly chambered for them. I definitely want to be safe that is the main reason I wanted to tip my hat to those that have more expertise with these old pocket pistols. the third model was the only large frame model to be offered in both a 5 shot 38 S&W and a 6 shot 32 S&W Long, which iver johnson call their '32 SPECIAL MODEL'.' 'for your information total production of the third model (1909-1941) large frame safety automatic hammer revolver was 194,500. All in upper case.Д«elow may be the reason mine chambers 32 S&W Long (?) If that is so would you be able to shoot both 32 S&W and 32 S&W longs? From all the great information, (thanks for the great link), I think mine will be a Model 3. (nothing else)Д«ottom of grip frame first line is unreadable but I can see it starts off with PAT. Top of barrel rib only has *Iver Johnson's Arms & Cycle Works* and *Fitchburg, Mass, USA* under that. The owl faces down towards the center of the grip.ДЇour crosspins along the bottom of the frame.

#Iver johnson top break revolver cheep serial number

Serial number under left side grip panel is H749** And it makes the year of manufacture either '94 or '95. It is also VERY well known that the First model is a very weak lockup design and shooting any smokeless loads in it makes it very likely to shoot the latch loose to where it will not stay locked up. Second models have two 'posts' sticking up into the top latch.

This gun will have just a single post on the frame for the top latch to catch on. Hmmm, based on the extra data on the American Firearms site (see next reply thanks Bucky B!), that makes Roy's gun a First model. And, to nail YOUR year of manufacture down, you need to get the letter from the front of the serial number under the top strap (pull cylinder off) or on the left side of grip strap (pull grips off) Letter is probably an A, E, or F, for 1897, 1898, and 1899, respectively. Is that date pretty well polished out? Your markings would make it a second model, almost certainly. Hmmm, Roy, that last date on the patents is not one that matches Goforth's docs for any of the 2nd or 3rd model small frame guns. PAT'D APR 6 86 FEB 15 87 MAY 10 87 DEC 26 93 PAT'S PENDING IVER JOHNSON ARMS & CYCLE WORKS FITCHBURG MASS. The text at the top of the the 3' round barrel reads: The SN is 79090 which is located at the bottom of the grip frame. The owl faces down an toward the trigger. My Nickel Plated IJ Pocket Pistol has the exposed hammer and it has the 2 cross pins as you mentioned. We'll likely use your further info to get the model right and the year of manufacturing. The definitive book on the IJ guns is 'Iver Johnson Arms and Cycle Works Firearms 1871-1993' by W. Third model have 4 cross pins along the lower edge of the frame.

A third model faces the owl down and back toward the grip.ДЇirst and second model IJ small frame revolvers have only two cross pins visible at the bottom edge of frame below the cylinder. Report all patent dates and the text of the lettering.ДЄ first and second model IJ factory-original grip has the owl facing forward and down toward the trigger. Unusual for patent dates not to be present there and sometimes on the butt, too. Look at the top rib of the barrel again, and check for any patent dates that may be present.

#Iver johnson top break revolver cheep full

Remove grips from frame and look for full serial number on the frame, too. Are you saying there is an H at the front of the serial number? Have you excluded any letter that you might have thought was not part of the number? Please also check for a complete serial number under the top strap (open the action, remove the cylinder). 32 caliber I believe have a letter in the front of the full serial number, but the number on the butt may omit the letter. Most Iver Johnson's small frame top-breaks in.